Ruffling and stitching machine.



A. H. DE VOB, 'RUFFLING AND STITGHING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 1a, 1908.

Patented Feb15,1910.

ANDREW a GRAKAM co. womumosmwsws. wnsummon', c c

A. H. DE VOE. RUFFLING AND STITOHIN G MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 18, 1908.

Patented Feb. 15, 1910.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

ANDREW s. GRAHAM CO. PNOYO-LITNOGRAFNERS,WI-SmNGTON. ac.

A. H. DE VOE.

RUPFLING AND STITOHING MACHINE.

APPLIOATION FILED FEB. 1a, 1908.

Patented Feb. 15, 1910.

a SHEETS-SHEET a.

g Vwewboz 3% w w a z 1 Q wi/f/weooeo ANDREW a GRAHAM (20.. mofmmuucmmzns, WASNINGIDN u c IIIIIILJ w Illlllj IIHIHIW.

A. H. DE v03. RUFFLING AND STITGHING MACHINE.

I APPLICATION FILED FEB.18, 1908.

Patented Feb. 15, 1910.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

A. H. DE VOE. RUFFLING AND STITGHING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED 1133.18, 1908. 949,725.,

Patented Feb. 15,

5 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

main-shaft embraced by the yoke 27 of the link-bar 28 whose operative movements are controlled by the teed-regulator 29 in a manner common to certain types of Singer machines.

A fixed rutlling blade 30 is attached by means of screws 31 to the bottom of a depending arm 32 of a carrier of which a second arm 33 is formed with a bearing above the fixed ruflling blade in which is fitted a rocking pin 34 having at one end a fixed collar 35 to which is connected by means of the screws 36 a second movable ruttling blade 37.

The carrier is constructed with a long sleeve 38 having at its rearward end a collar or enlargement 39 and with a depending fiat portion or plate 40 from which the arms 32 and 33 extend upon opposite sides. The sleeve 38 is mounted upon the rudder rockshaft 41 journaled at its forward end in a lateral bearing 42 upon the depending forward portion of the bracket-arm and carries adjacent theretoa crankarm 43 having a lateral notch 44 adapted to embrace the lateral stud 45 upon the carrier-plate 40 and an adjacent notch 46 with an intermediate cam edge 47. The carrier-plate is formed on one side with a radial socket 48 to which is fitted the latch plug 49 having the lateral slot 50, and a spring 51 is interposed between the plate 52, forming the bottom of the socket 48, and the inner end of a recess in the latch plug 49 to maintain the latter yieldingly in its outer position. One side of the socket is formed with a radial slot 53 which is entered by a pin 54 extended into the transverse slot of the latch plug 49, the pin 54 extending laterally from one arm 55 of the angular carrier-release-lever fulcrumed at 56 upon the carrier-plate 40 and having in the oppositely extending arm 57 an aperture loosely embracing a lateral stud 58 upon one arm of an angle lever 59 secured upon the rocking rufiling blade carrying pin 34 and the other arm of which forms an abutment between which and a shoulder of the carrier-plate 40 is interposed the spring 60 adapted to normally maintain the upper rufliing blade 37 closed upon the lower rutliing blade 30.

Adjacent its fulcrum 56 the carrier-release-lever is provided with an operating lever 61 for tilting the same upon its fulcrum. The rutliing blade carrier is normally shifted rearwardly out of engagement with the crank-arm 43, as represented in Fig. 8, and in order to place it in operative relation with the stitch-forming mechanism, the sleeve 38 and operating lever 61 are grasped by the operator to tilt the carrier-release lever, whereby the upper rufliing blade 37 is raised from the lower ruii'ling blade 30 and the latch 49 is simultaneously retracted into its socket. In shifting the carrier forwardly it is swung slightly toward the operator, as

represented in Fig. 14 and then advanced into the position represented in Fig. 13, the screw-stud 45 entering the notch 44 with its head upon the opposite side of the crankarm 43 from the plate 40, whereby the carrier is locked from endwise movement, while the release of the operating lever 61 not only permits the blade 37 to close upon the blade 30 in operative position but enables the latch plug 49 to enter its notch 46 in the crankarm 43 so as to couple the carrier firmly to the rock-shaft and cause it to partake of the movements of the rock-shaft. To insure the maintenance of the carrier-release-lever in normal position, a spring 62 is interposed between the base of the operating lever 61 and the adjacent edge of the carrier-plate 40. As will be observed, the aperture in the lever arm 57 embracing the stud 58 is sutliciently large to permit a certain amount of lost-motion in order that the latch and the upper rntlling blade may be operated successively as is desirable under certain conditions.

The ruttler rock-shaft 41 extends from the forward portion of the machine rearwardly into the hollow upright portion of the bracket-arm where it is provided with a depending crank-arm 63 fixed thereon and having a segmental lower end serving as a guide which is embraced by the forked inner end of a link 64 pivoted thereto by means of a pin 65 and having its opposite end pivoted by means of a pin 66 to the lower end of the link-bar 67 and a slide-block 68, which latter is fitted to a segmental slide-way 69 in a guide-arm 70 fixed upon the inner end of the rocking pin 71. The radius of curvature of the slide-way corresponds with the length of the link 64, and in the initial inoperative position of the mechanism its center of curvature coincides with the axis of the pivotal pin 65. The link-bar 67 is provided at its upper end with a strap 72 embracing an eccentric 73 upon the main-shaft from which it derives a reciprocatory movement for each rotation of the main-shaft, the angular relation of the guide-arm 7O determining the degree of lateral movement which the crank-arm 63 derives through the link mem ber 64.

The rocking pin 71 is journaled in a suitable bearing in the forward portion of the base of the bracket-arm and carries at its outer end a crank-arm 74 formed with a longitudinal slot 7 5 in which are fitted the reduced inner portions of a pair of adjustable clamp-blocks 76 connected by means of a clamp-screw 7 7 with the inner end entering an aperture in a slide-block 7 6 fitted to a corresponding slot 7 8 in a lateral arm 79 of an angular lever mounted upon the fulcrum pin 80 and having an upwardly extending arm 81 which carries at its upper end a screw-stud 82, the inner end of which is preferably surrounded by a roller, entering a groove 83 in the controlling canrdisk 84. The cam 84 receives a step-by-step rotary motion from actuating mechanism presently to be described, and it will be observed that in its rotation its action upon the stud 82 entering the cam-groove 83 causes the rocking of the angular lever 79 81, which is communicated through the coupling blocks 7 6, 7 6 slotted arm 74 and rocking pin 71 to the guide-arm which in turn so guides the slide-block 68 as to cause the communication of a variable rocking motion between the lower end of the link-bar 67 and the crankarm 63, with a corresponding variation in the rocking movements of the rufiler rockshaft 41 and rattling blades 30 and 37 rigidly connected therewith through their carrier, as represented in Fig. 13. It is evidentthat the position of adjustment of the coup ling blocks 76 intermediate the fulcrum points 71 and 80 serves to determine the degree of operation of the controlling cam 84 upon the guide-arm 70.

The rearward face of the cam-disk 84 is provided with the annular flange 85, which is embraced by the spaced and similarly curved ja 86 at the free end of a curved clutch-lever 87 having its opposite end pivotally connected by means of a pin 88 with one arm 89 of an operating lever having a boss 90 fitted loosely upon the hub of the cam-disk 84 and provided with an oppositely extending arm 91 formed with a lateral lug 92 having a socket in which is seated one end of a spring 93 with its opposite end fitted within a similar socket of a lateral lug 94 upon the clutch-lever 87, whereby the pivotally connected members are forced slightly apart to cause the jaws 86 to assume a slightly eccentric relation to the flange 85 so as to have a cramping action thereon in a manner well known. The levera rm 89 is formed with an upwardly extending lu 95 having a suitably threaded aperture 96 entered by a screw-stud 97 which forms a pivotal connection with a strap 98 at the lower end of an eccentric-rod 99 having at its other end a strap 100 which embraces an adjustable eccentric 101 upon the mainshaft. As represented in Figs. 5, 6 and 7 he eccentric 101 has an elongated aperture 102 embracing the main-shaft 4 and is carried by a slide-plate 103 which is fitted to a transverse guide-way in a fixed collar 104 upon the main-shaft, the construction being similar to that of the feed-actuating eccentrio represented in the United States Patent to P. Diehl and A. Gried, No. 814,027, of March 6, 1906. An adjusting screw 105 is formed at one end with a series of annularthreads embracing similarly spaced lugs upon the slide-plate 103, and has its opposite end portion screw threaded to engage the corresponding transverse aperture 105 in the collar 104 whereby the turning of the adjusting screw serves to shift the eccentric 101 transversely upon the main-shaft 4, to vary the action of the eccentric upon the lever 89 91 through the rod 99.

It will be seen that the yielding action of the spring 93 in the oscillation of the levers 89 91 and 87 causes a cramping action of the jaws 86 upon the flange 85 in one direction and the release of the same when moving in the opposite direction, whereby the cam re ceives a stepby-step rotary motion in one direction only, which acts through its connections with the guide-arm 70 to cause a variable operation of the rufiling blades during the combined stitching and ruitling action of the machine.

To insure against retrograde motion in the backward movement of the operating lever, the cam is provided with the usual peripheral groove to receive the encircling band 84 whose opposite ends are formed with eyes entered and fastened adjustably to a fixed abutment of the sewing machine frame by a screw 84*.

In the free end portion of the lever 87 is journaled a rocking pin 106 which carries at one end a clutch releasing finger 107 normally resting in contact with the adjacent end of the contact screw 108 mounted in a lug 109 at the end of the lever-arm 91 and provided with a lock-nut 110 to maintain it in fixed adjustment in the threaded aperture of said lug 109. Upon the opposite end of the pin 106 is fixed a tripping finger 111 which lies in the path of movement of a lateral pin 112 carried by an arm 113 of an angular lever fulcrumed upon the screwstud 82 carried by the vibrating lever 81 and having a second arm 114 extending slightly beneath the miller rock-shaft 41 adjacent the camdisk 84. The arm 114 of this lever is formed with a lug 115 having a socket to receive one end of a spiral spring 116 whose opposite end engages the adjacent edge of the lever 81 and the arm 114 is thus yieldingly pressed upwardly toward the rufller actuating rock-shaft. The forward face of the cam-disk 84 has a recess 117 to receive the annular flange 118 of a stop-collar 119 loosely mounted upon the shaft 41 but pressed outwardly from the cam by means of a weak spring 120 interposed between the bottom of the recess 117 and the bottom of the flange 118. The diameter of the collar 119 is a trifle larger than that of the collar 39 upon the carrier-sleeve 38.

At the end of a ruttling operation, when it is desired to do plain stitching, the millercarrier is simultaneously disengaged from the work and from its actuating rock-shaft by pressure upon the operating lever 61 to withdraw the latch 49 and elevate the upper rutfling blade 37, the carrier being rocked slightly at the same time to disengage the head of the screw-stud 45 from the crankarm 43. The carrier is allowed to remain in retracted position, as represented in Fig. 8, until a succeeding rufiiing operation is desired, the lever-arm 81 being at this time in its outer position and the arm 11 1 of the angular tripping lever being in engagement with the lower edge of the collar 39 of the carrier-sleeve 38, whereby the tripping pin 112 is held in engagement with the finger 111 which acts through the pin 106 to maintain the finger 107 in operative engagement with the contact screw 108 by means of which engagement the aws 86 of the clutchlever are maintained in concentric and inoperative relation with the flange of the cam 84.

hen the carrier is shifted forwardly into operative position as represented in Figs. 1, 2, 9 and 13, the upwardly pressed arm 114 of the tripping lever is released by the collar 39 but its engagement with the extreme forward edge of the collar 119 nearest the collar 39 prevents the latter from ad vancing with the same and the arm 114 is thus enabled to rise toward the shaft 4E1 under the action of its spring, which causes the release of the finger 11 and consequently the return of the clutclrlever 87 to operative relation with the cam under the action of the spring 93, thus permitting the continued rotation of the controlling cam under the action of the eccentric 101.

lVhile the throw-in and throw-out device for the cam rotating mechanism permits of an extremely broad scope of operation of the machine, for certain classes of articles of uniform shape and size, it is evident that by the employment of concentric cam portions such throw-in and throw-out devices could be dispensed with and the cam allowed to rotate continuously, plain stitching only being done while the follower 82 remains in the concentric portion of the cam-groove. In cases wherein the circular movement of the cam is reversed at the completion of each ruffiing operation or series thereof, it is evident that the right-and-left form of camgroove may be replaced by a single camgroove, and the present invention is not therefore limited to the duplicated cam portions shown particularly in Fig. 3 of the drawings.

Opposed to the feed-dog is a presser-foot of special form, as represented in detail in Figs. 16 and 17. This presserfoot is c011- structed with a shank portion 121 secured by means of the usual fastening screw 122 to the lower end of the presser-bar 123 and having at the lower end a pair of spaced forwardly projecting tongues 12% connected by means of the pivotal pin 125 with the channeled sole member 126 extending backwardly under the rearward portion of the shank 121 and connected by a pivotal pin 127 with the rearward extension 128 of the the shank 121 and recessed in its lower side to clear the pivotal pin 125. The forward ends of the heel and toe portions are upturned to insure the easy passage beneath them of the work undergoing the ruflling and stitching operations, and the needle-hole 130 is formed through the adjacent edges of the heel and toe portions of the foot. The lower end of the shank 121 is provided intermediate the pivotal pins 125 and 127 with a socket 131 between the bottom of which and the top of the reduced extension 128 of the toe member 129 is interposed a spring 132 serving to normally maintain the toe portion and the rearward end of the heel portion yieldingly pressed downward. The springpressed presser-bar 123 is pro vided with the usual thrust-collar 123 which is yieldingly forced downwardly by means of the spring 123 surrounding the upper portion of the presser-bar with its lower end engaging the top of the thrust-collar.

As the rufHing blades are designed to be shifted into and out of operative engagement with the upper ply of material while undergoing a stitching operation and without removal of the same from the machine, it is important that provision should be made for the thrusting of such blades into operative position while opened when the presserfoot is down upon the material. By pivoting the toe portion 129 to the heel portion independent of the latters connection with the presser-foot shank, the so-called toe portion affords practically an auxiliary presserfoot which is enabled not only to cooperate with the ruiiiing blades in their normal ruffling operation but to rise readily in opposition to the yielding action of the spring 132 to enable the rufl'ling blades to enter their operative relation with the stitch-forming mechanism and the work without the raising of the resser-bar and the consequent liability -to displacement of the work for such operation.

In the preferred embodiment of the present improvement, both upper and under rufliing blades are employed, but it is evidently immaterial to the present invention in certain of its aspects whether or not both of such rufiling blades are provided, as either of these blades is obviously capable of performing the essential function of the ruttler in crowding the upper ply of material beneath the presser-foot for action of the stitch-forming mechanism.

As will be observed by reference to Figs. 19 and 20, the tabi comprises a stiff and thick sole a and an upper 22 of cloth secured to the latter around the edges by means of a line of stitches 0.

The toe portion is di-..

erases vided, and the greatest fullness in the ruffled toe portionsis formed at their forward extremities (Z and c. The sole and upper are secured together while the article is inside out, as represented in Figs. 19 and 20, and the tabi is reversed after the stitching operation.

is shown in the accompanying drawings, the present machine is constructed for stitching successively the right-and-left tabis of each pair, for which reason the cam-groove 83 is formed with reversely arranged portions each adapted to control the ruliling action for each of the divided portions of both tables of a pair, it being understood that the machine is necessarily built for operating upon the corresponding edges of all articles, so that the tabis may not be introduced upon first one side and then the opposite side of the needle for the stitching and ruftling operations. As represented in Fig. 3, the camgroove 83 has four extreme outer points causing the lever 81 to be thrown outwardly whereby the engagement of the arm 114 of the angular trip-lever with the periphery of the collar 119 causes the pin 112 to engage the finger 111 for throwing the cam-actuating mechanism out of action while the guidearm is simultaneously thrown into concentric relation with the pivotal pin 65 of the link 61 to interrupt the action of the ruflier rock-shaft 41. Intermediate the outer cam-points are the inwardly extending cam portions m and m to control the milling of the toe portions (Z of the tabis and the cam portions n and a for controlling the toe portions 6 of the tabis, the portions m and a lying upon one side of a diametrical line of the cam and the portions m and n upon the opposite side and in inverse relation in reference to the direction of rotation of the cam. As will be observed, the cam portions m and m are nearly symmetrical between their extreme outer points, so as to make the fullness in the toe portion (Z of the tabi nearly the same in the approach and recession from the maximum; while the cam portions n and a are of irregular form between the extreme outer extremities, whereby in producing the required fullness in the toe portion a of the tabi the approach and recession from the maximum at the extremity of such toe portion is different upon the opposite sides. It will thus be seen that the controlling cam is so formed as to variably control the action of the ruftling mechanism for irregular articles, and the present improvement is believed to be the first instance in which mechanism has been embodied for such action.

In the operation of the machine, the two arts of the tabi are associated together, inside-out as before explained, and the stitching is started at the heel in order to properly portioih After the plain stitching has pro gressed to the point e, the ruftler-carrier is shifted forwardly into operative position, the blades being separated as before described, to enable the lower blade to enter between the upper and lower plies and the upper blade to rest upon the upper ply. In the further operation of the machine the stitching continues and the rufiling device starts and gradually increases its action upon the upper ply to the maximum throw of the ruffiing blades and then diminishes to the throw-out point, which is at 6 The carrier is now shifted backwardly into engagement with the collar 119, forcing the same inwardly into the recess 117 of the cam 81, where it rests, as represented in Fig. 8, until the stitching has been completed of the remainder of the toe portion a and the be ginning of the toe portion (Z. At the point (Z, the rufiier-carrier is again thrown forward into operative position to engage the upper ply of material, and in the further stitching operation a similar variable ruiiling action to that already described is effected up to the point d, after which the rufHer-carrier is again thrown backwardly into extreme retracted position and the plain stitching of the final edge of the tabi continued to the initial starting point at the heel.

While the present improvement has been herein described as constructed and adapted for the stitching and ruflling 0f tabis, it is evidently adapted for similar operation upon other articles of irregular shapes, or those requiring differentand varying degrees of fullness in different parts, while certain of its features are equally adapted to entirely different classes of work than that herein described; and it is therefore to be understood that the present improvement is not limited to the specific embodiment herein shown and described but is capable of embodiment in machines for general use in various classes of work.

In the present embodiment of this improvement, a thin ruftling blade is employed to propel the ply of material to be ruffled faster than the action of the primary or lower feed mechanism in order to crimp or full the material, but the specific nature of the auxiliary feeding member is not an es sential of the present improvement, as the function of the rufliing or secondary feed ing member is in any case to advance the material to the stitch-forming mechanism more rapidly than it is propelled therefrom by the primary feeding device.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what. I claim herein is 1. In a ruffling machine, in combination, a rufliing member, actuating mechanism therefor comprising means whereby the locate one of the flaps centrally of the heel stroke of said ruifling member is automatically varied in the performance of a succes sion of ruffling or gathering movements, manually controlled means for initiating the operation of the ruffiing member, and automatically acting means for interrupting the operative movements of the ruffling member.

2. In a rufliing machine, in combination, a rufliing member, actuating mechanism therefor comprising intermittingly moving controlling means whereby the stroke of said member is automatically varied differently in the approach to and recession from the maximum ruffling stroke in the performance of a succession of ruffling or gathering movements, and automatically acting means for arresting the movement of the controlling means, whereby the ruffiing operation is interrupted at the end of a predetermined ruffiing period.

3. In a ruffling machine, in combination, a ruffling member, actuating mechanism therefor comprising controlling means whereby the stroke of said member is automatically varied differently in the approach to and recession from the maximum ruffling stroke in the performance of a succession of ruffling or gathering movements, and automatically acting means actuated by said controlling means for rendering the latter inactive at the end of a predetermined rutliing period.

4;. In a ruffling and stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a ruffling device bodily movable into and out of operative relation with the stitch-forming mechanism, actuating mechanism therefor comprising means for imparting operative movements to the rufliing member, and a controller for said actuating mechanism including means for automatically varying differently the action of said actuating mechanism upon the ruffling member in the approach to and recession from the maximum rufl'ling stroke in performing a succession of rufliing or gathering movements.

5. In aruffling machine, in combination, a ruflling member, actuating mechanism therefor comprising means for imparting operative movements to the ruffling member, a rotary cam and connections intermediate the same and said actuating mechanism adapted to variably control the operation of the latter for imparting to the milling member consecutive operative strokes of variable length, and means for regulating the speed of movement of said cam.

(3. In a ruffling machine, in combination, feeding mechanism, means for adjusting the effective action of the same, a rutliing member, actuating mechanism therefor, a controller for said actuating mechanism adapt ed to determine the period of action of the ruffling member and to govern the action of the actuating mechanism for imparting to the ruffiing member consecutive operative strokes of variable length, and means for adjusting the speed of action and extent of movement of said controller.

7. In a ruffling machine, in combination, feeding mechanism, means for adjusting the effective action of the same, a rufliing member, actuating mechanism therefor, a controller for said actuating mechanism adapted to determine the period of action of the ruffling member and to govern the action of the actuating member for imparting to the rufliing member consecutive operative strokes of variable length, and independently adjustable means for determining the speed of action and extent of movement of said controller and the maximum length of ruffler throw.

8. In a rufliing machine, in combination, a rufl'ling member, actuating mechanism therefor, and controlling means for said actuating mechanism comprising a circularly moving cam member provided with a plurality of extreme operative points and a plurality of intermediate cam portions of different shapes, a follower adapted to suecessively engage said cam portions in the control of said actuating means, and a throw-out device in operative relation with said follower whereby the circular movement of said cam is interrupted when the follower reaches said extreme operative points of the cam.

9. In a ruliling machine, in combination, a rutliing member, actuating mechanism therefor, and controlling means for said actuating mechanism comprising a circularly moving cam member provided with a plurality of extreme operative points and a plurality of intermediate cam portions of different shapes, means including a friction clutch for actuating said cam, a rock-lever carrying a stud or projection adapted to successively engage said cam portions in the control of said actuating means, and means carried by said rock-lever for disengaging said cam from operative connection with its actuating means.

10. In a milling machine, in combination, a ruffling member, actuating mechanism therefor, controlling means for said actuating mechanism comprising a rotary cam provided with a plurality of extreme operative points and a plurality of intermediate cam portions of different shapes, a follower connected with said actuating mechanism and adapted to successively engage said cam portions in the control of said actuating means, throw-out mechanism for interrupting the movement of said cam at said extreme points, and means for throwing said cam into operation.

11. In a rufliing machine, in combination, a rufiiing member, actuating mechanism therefor comprising a rock-shaft, a crankl. l. O

arm fixed thereon, a link having one end connected with said crank-arm, a pivotally mounted guide-arm with which tl e other end of said link is slidingly connected, an actuating shaft provided with a crank or eccentric, and a bar having at one end a strap embracing said crank or eccentric and having at the other end a pivotal connection with said link adjacent its connection with the guiclenrm, and means for adjusting the angular relation of said guide-arm to the pivotal connection of said link with the crank-arm upon the rock-shaft.

12. In a milling machine, in combination, a rutl'ling member, actuating mechanism therefor comprising a rock-shaft, a crankarm fixed thereon, a reciprocating and laterally movable bar, a pivotally mounted guide-arm with which one end of said bar has a sliding connection, a link connection intermediate said bar and the crank-arm of said rock-shaft, and means for adjusting the angular relation of said guide-arm with the direction of reciprocation of said bar.

13. In a rn'liling machine, in combination, a ruttling member, actuating mechanism therefor comprising a reciprocating and laterally movable member having an operative connection with the ruffiing member, and a guide-arm with which the same is slidingly connected, means for imparting reciprocating movements to the second-named member, a rocking pin upon one end of which said guide-arm is fixed, a crank-arm rigidly attached to the said, rocking pin, a circularly moving controlling cam, a follower for said cam connected with the crank-arm of said rocking pin, and means for rotating said cam.

1st. In a ruitling machine, in combination, a rufliing member, actuating mechanism therefor comprising a reciprocating and laterally movable member having an operative connection with the ruftling member, and a guide-arm with which the same is slidingly connected, a rocking pin upon which said guide-arm is fixed, a crank-arm rigidly attached to said rocking pin, a plural-armed lever fulcrumed independently of said roclc ing pin with one of its arms overlapping and adjustably connected with said crankarm of the rocking pin and having its other arm provided with a lateral stud, a circularly moving controlling cam in operative relation with the lateral stud of said pluralarmed lever, and means for rotating said cam.

15. In a rnfliinp' machine, in combination, a rufliing member, actuating mechanism therefor comprising a reciprocating and laterally movable member having an operative connection with the ruflling member, and a guide-arm with which the same is slidingly connected, a rocking pin upon which said guide-arm is fixed, a crank-arm rigidly attached to said rocking pin, a plural-armed lever fulcrumed independently of said rocking pin with one of its arms overlapping and adjnstably connected with said crank-arm of the rocking pin and having its other arm provided with a lateral stud, a circularly moving controlling cam in operative relation with the lateral stud of said pluralarmed lever, means for rotating said cam, and a throw-in and throw-out device connected with the cam-rotating device whereby the rotation of the cam may be established and interrupted.

16. In a ruffiing machine, in combination, a rufiiing member, actuating mechanism therefor comprising a reciprocating and laterally movable member having an operative connection with the rnifling member, and a guide-arm with which the same is slidingly connected, a rocking pin upon which said guide-arm is fixed, a crank arm rigidly at tached to said rocking pin, a plural-armed lever fulcrumed independently of said rocking pin with one of its arms overlapping and adjnstably connected with said crank-arm of the rocking pin and having its other arm provided with a lateral stud, a circularly moving controlling cam in operative relation with the lateral stud of said pluralarmed lever, means for rotating said cam, a throw-in and throw-out device connected with the cam-rotating device whereby the rotation of the cam may be established and interrupted, and means controlled respectively manually and automatically at the beginning and end of the rufliing operation for operating said throw-in and throw-out device to establish and interrupt the movement of said cam.

17. In a ruiliing machine, in combination, a rutl'ling member, actuating mechanism therefor, and a controlling device for said actuating mechanism consisting of a rotary am, a follower therefor connected with and adapted to vary the relation of operative members of said actuating mechanism, a cramping lever in normal operative relation with said cam, an operating lever pivotally connected with said cramping lever, a spring interposed between said levers for maintaining said cramping lever yieldingly in operative relation with the cam, disengaging means for overcoming the action of said spring, and means for actuating said disengaging means to cause said cramping lever to alternately assume operative and inoperative relations with said cam.

18. In a ruftling machine, in combination, a rufliing member, actuating mechanism therefor, and a controlling device for said actuating mechanism consisting of a rotary cam, a follower therefor connected with and adapted to vary the relation of operative members of said actuatmg mechanism, a cramping lever in normal operatlve relation gaging blades and means for separating said feeding mechanisms, of a rattler-actuating with said cam, an operating lever pivotally connected with said cramping lever, a spring interposed between said levers for maintaining said cramping lever yieldingly in operative relation with the cam, a rocking device applied to one of said levers and provided with a finger adapted to engage an abutment upon the other of said levers for relatively moving them in opposition to said spring and having also a tripping finger, and means carried by the follower of said cam for engaging said tripping finger to disengage said cramping lever from the cam.

19. In .a ruflling and stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a rufliing device movable into and out of operative relation with the stitch-forming mechanism, means for actuating the same, spring actuated lock ing means for connecting said rutliing device to its actuating means in operative position, and means for effecting the release of said ruiiiing device from its actuating means and enabling it to be shifted out of operative position.

20. In a ruftling and stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a ruflling device movable transversely of the direction of feed into and out of operative relation with the stitch-forming mechanism, actuating means in normal inoperative relation with said ruftling device, and a locking device comprising a spring-messed latch and an operating lever therefor whereby said ruffling device is temporarily maintained in operative relation with its actuating means and in operative position in relation to the stitch-forming mechanism.

21.. In a ruflling and stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a ruflling device bodily movable into and out of operative relation with said stitch-forn'iing mechanism and comprising a plurality of connectedly mounted simultaneously operative work-enblades, and means for actuating said ruiiiing device.

22. In a ruflling and stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a rufl'ling device movable into and out of operative relation with said stitch-forming mechanism and comprising a plurality of work-engaging, blades, a reciprocating carrier upon which said blades are mounted and means includ ing a common operating member whereby said blades may be opened and closed while in initial operative position and the rufiling device locked in and released from operative relation with the stitch-forming mechanism.

23. In a ruflling and stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming and rock-shaft provided with a fixed crank-arm, means for actuating said rock-shaft, a ruffling device loosely mounted upon said rockshaft for oscillatory movement and for endwise movement into and out of operative relation with the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, and positively acting means for detachably locking said ruftling device to said crank-arm in fixed position upon said shaft for temporary operation in conjunction with said stitch-forming mechanism.

24-. In a ruliling and stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a ruflier actuating rock-shaft provided with a fixed crank-arm, means for actuating said rock-shaft, a ruffling device loosely mounted upon said rockshaft and movable longitudinally thereof, said ruftling device comprising a plurality of work-engaging bla dos, and means including a common operating member for simultaneously detachably connecting the milling device with said crank-arm and opening the rattling blades to receive the work.

25. In a milling and stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a rutl'ler actuating rock-shaft provided with a fixed crank-arm having angularly disposed notches, means for actuating said rock-shaft, a rattling device comprising a plurality of work-engaging blades and a carrier therefor including a sleeve loosely mounted upon said rockshaft and movable longitudinally thereof, a headed stud and a spring-pressed latch respectively adapted to engage the notches in said crank-arm, a release lever, and connections intermediate the same and said latch and one of said ruliling blades for effecting the simultaneous withdrawal of the latch to release the carrier and the lifting of said rufl'ling blade.

26. In a ruflling and stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a rufliing device movable transversely of the direction of feed into and out of operative relation with the stitch-forming mechanism, actuating mechanism for said ruflling device, a controller for said actuating mechanism comprising a rotary cam and operating means therefor including a throw-in and throwout device automatically controlled directly from said cam to interrupt the movement of the latter and controlled by the shifting of the rutlling device into operative relation with the stitchforming mechanism to reestablish the operative movement of said cam.

27. In a ruiiling and stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a rulfler actuating rock-shaft, a rattling device loosely mounted thereon and adapted for movement to and from operative relation with the stitch-forming mechanism and provided with means for detachably locking the same rigidly to said rock-shaft in operative position, actuating mechanism for said rock-shaft, a controller for said actuating mechanism comprising a rotary cam and a follower therefor, operating mechanism for said cam including a normally operative clutch, and means connected with said follower and adapted to engage a member of the rufi'iing device when in inoperative position, whereby the clutch is automatically disengaged in the normal action of the cam and is permitted to return to operative position by the shifting of said rutliing device from inoperative to operative position.

28. In a ruffling and stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a ruifling device movable into and out of operative relation with the stitch-forming mechanism, actuating mechanism therefor, means controlled by the shifting of the rufliing device into operative position for tripping the actuating mechanism into action, and means controlled independently of said rufiiing device for throwing said actuating mechanism out of action.

In a rufiling and stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a ruiiling device movable transversely of the direction of feed into and out of operative relation with the stitch-forming mechanism, actuating mechanism therefor, means controlled by the shifting of the rufliing device into operative position for tripping the actuating mechanism into action, and means controlled independently of said ruffling device for throwing said actuating mechanism out of action.

30. In a rufiling and stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a ruiiling device comprising acarrier, a pair of overlying ruHling blades mounted thereon with their operative edges arranged substantially coincidently the one above the other and thus adapted to engage both upper and lower faces of interposed material at substantially the same point, means including a lever pivotally mounted upon said carrier for separating said rufliing blades to receive a ply of material and means for imparting to and-fro operative movements to said carrier.

31. In a rufliing and stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a carrier movable into and out of operative position transversely of the direction of feed, a pair of overlapping ruflier blades mounted upon said carrier, one of which is movable toward and from the other, means for separating said rather-blades to receive a ply of material, and means for imparting a to-and-fro movement to said carrier while in operative position.

In a rufliing and stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a ruffling device comprising a rufliing blade movable into and out of operative relation with the stitchfOrming mechanism within the direction of feed, means for actuating said rufliing device while in operative position, a spring actuated presser-bar, a primary presser-footattached to said bar and cooperating with the stitch-forming and feeding mechanism in operation upon the work, and an auxiliary presser-foot yieldingly connected with the primary presser-foot independently of said resser-bar and adapted to cooperate with said rufiiing blade in the presentation of the ruffles or gathers to the stitch-forming mechanism.

33. In a ruifling and stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a rutfling device comprising a plurality of overlapped and coincidently extending rufliing blades movable into and out of operative relation with the stitch-forming mechanism Within the direction of feed, means for actuating said ruffling device While in operative position, a Spring actuated presser-bar, a primary presser-foot attached to said bar and co operating with the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms in operation upon the work, and an auxiliary presser-foot yieldingly connected with the primary presser-foot independently of said presser-bar and adapted to cooperate with said ruffling blades in the presentation of the ruffles or gathers to the stitch-forming mechanism.

34. In a rufliing and stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a rufiiing device comprising a plurality of overlapped and coincidently extending ruffling blades independently mounted and provided with means. for separating them to admit a ply of material and movable into and out of operative relation with the stitch-forming mechanism within the direction of feed, means for ac tuating said rufliing device while in operative position, a spring-actuated presser-bar, a primary presser-foot attached to said bar and cooperating with the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms in operation upon the work, and an auxiliary presser-foot yieldingly connected with the primary presserfoot independently of said presser-bar and adapted to cooperate with said rufliing blades in the presentation of the ruflies or gathers to the stitch-forming mechanism.

35. In a ruiiiing and stitching machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a ruflling device comprising a rufiiing blade movable into and out of operative relation With the stitchforming mechanism Within the direction of feed, means for actuating said ruffling device While in operative position, a springactuated presser-bar, a resser-foot shank attached to said bar and provided With spaced laterally projecting tongues, a channeled primary foot member entered by and pivotally connected at its forward end With said tongues, an auxiliary foot member disposed in advance of the primary foot member and having an extension pivoted to the name to this specification, in the presence of two subscrlbmg witnesses.

ALBERT H. DE VOE.

Witnesses D. B. BIRNIE, H. J. MILLER.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my 

